SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

Brakes - Fitting Discs and Required Ancillaries

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Gearbox - Limited Slip Diffs, What they're about

Modified engines producing more power generally induce owners to drive with greater verve, particularly when competing in one of the many motorsport disciplines. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential In fact this isn’t isolated to modified Minis. Owners of relatively standard machinery competing in a discipline or merely out on a country lane blast are subject to the same determination. The more verve/determination applied, the more of a struggle keeping your Mini on the designated track becomes. Generally the problem is down to grip - or more precisely the lack of it. Suspension modifications and extensive twiddling of geometry settings can provide improvements in stability, both for straight lines and turn in/mid corner performance. But even throwing bucket loads of cash at super high grade dampers, and the odd arm/leg/lung handed over to ‘professional’ chassis tuners doesn’t solve the particular grip problem we’re interested in here - corner exit/acceleration grip, or

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY - Buy the right parts to do the job correctly

It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear.

Suspension - King Pin Offset

Adverse Effects of Fitting Wide Wheels part numbers: C-AJJ3359 Terminology used: KPI - King Pin Inclination KPO - King Pin Offset LSD - Limited Slip Differential In the 'Suspension - Terminology' section, I covered what KPI is, as it is an ancient but still oft-used term despite being pretty redundant. Not that it isn't attendant in current cars - it has to be. It's just that the mass car manufacturers have settled the angle at which it is set down to a fairly universally used envelope, and there's nothing the individual can do to alter it without entirely re-fabricating the hubs of drastic surgery on the existing ones. So is, to all intents and purposes, fixed. Even the most technically advanced race teams can do little more than keep a wary eye on what it is doing when playing with suspension set-up.

C-AJJ4008 ADJUSTABLE REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Jack rear of car up, and place securely on axle stands, positioned to allow maximum access to rear subframe/rear radius arms area. Remove rear exhaust hanger to exhaust clamp or un-hook rubber loop on late type cars. Using suitable saw, cut off centralising tab from bottom center of subframe rear cross member. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove upper most and rear most brake back plate to radius arm nuts and bolts.

C-AJJ3313 PROGRESIVE REAR BUMP STOPS

This kit is intended for all hydrolastic minis, although it has been fitted on to dry suspension cars to give improved handling characteristics during motor sport events. Check all clearances of brake pipes and hoses and relocate if necessary. On dry suspension radius arms there is no hole for the bump stop bracket.

MS69 FIXED REAR NEGATIVE CAMBER BRACKETS

Fitting these brackets will add approximately 1.5 degrees of negative camber to whatever the current setting is, THEY DO NOT give 1.5 degrees of camber. The factory standard settings are quoted as 0.5-2.5 degrees.

After fitment it is imperitive to get the geometry checked, particularly the tracking, The ...

MS73 - ADJUSTABLE REAR TRACK AND CAMBER BRACKETS FITTING INSTRUCTIONS.

To facilitate full experimentation in this area, the MS73 kit has been developed to allow accurate adjustment of rear wheel camber AND track. Adjustment of rear track can greatly influence the handling characteristics of the Mini. For reference, toe in gives straight-line performance/stability with more rear end grip (under-steer). Toe-out gives over-steer in corners, and less stability in a straight line - particularly under part/closed throttle conditions. Simple and effective caster/camber and tracking gauges are available from Mini Spares (Tool10 caster/camber gauge, TOOL11 tracking gauge) to facilitate DIY setting of geometry.

C-AJJ4064 – 8 PORT CYLINDER HEAD

The combustion chambers are left in a basic shape only with a nominal 16.4cc which allows enough metal for those with the latest advanced ideas of shape to apply them and create the correct compression ratios for the desired use.

Valve and seat material specification allows use of unleaded fuel. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head before final assembly. Check that the small circlip is in the correct position in the valve guide at a point where the guide protrudes through the cylinder head beneath the valve seat. Place the valve spring seat over...

Theminiforum2mongolia trip report

We managed to do a bit of sightseeing in Kiev and said good bye to my first co-driver and picked up my second. Ukraine culminated in being fined 1km from the border for having too many lights on the mini!

Then it was into Russia where we travelled through the massive industrial city of Volgograd, drove over a pontoon bridge and had a little too much of the local Vodka. By this point...

Historical Article - Nov 1992 - History in the making

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

Historical Article - Nov 1992 - History in the making

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

Historical Article - October 1993 - Converting WET to DRY suspension

Converting WET to DRY suspension The following is a practical way of converting your wet suspension to dry, acknowledging the fact that with enough skill, enterprise and facilities...

Historical Article-August 1994-Steady Eddy

Steady Eddy My first visit to Mini Spares must have been over 12 years ago and while buying the usual go faster bits, I enquired about a Saturday job. A very lean and handsome Keith Calver could only offer me full time employment. I declined and subsequently have spent a small fortune over the years and drunk far too many pints of beer with K.C.

Historical Article-August 1994-Steady Eddy

Steady Eddy My first visit to Mini Spares must have been over 12 years ago and while buying the usual go faster bits, I enquired about a Saturday job. A very lean and handsome Keith Calver could only offer me full time employment. I declined and subsequently have spent a small fortune over the years and drunk far too many pints of beer with K.C.

Historical Article-November 1995-Wheel of Fortune

Wheel of Fortune If there is one aesthetic accessory that commands more debate, confusion, and disappointment it has to be the wheel. Since the inception of the Mini, if any manufacturers have produced a vast array of different designs and' sizes of wheel rim.Many are now defunct, although some of the rims still surface through garage clearouts and the like .. Many of the rims specifically made for the Mini generally fit with no problems, others have been adapted from a rim made for another vehicle.